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Scapa Pentland map
Library of  Lighthouses
& Navigation Beacons in
Scapa Flow & Pentland Firth

Map based on drawings appearing in Michael Spencer's website - www.scotlights.com.



Scapa Flow and its lighthouses

 

scapa annotated

Scapa Flow has been as an important shipping haven for over 1000 years. The huge natural harbour of Scapa Flow is one of Orkney's distinguishing features. It lies south of the mainland between Stromness and St Mary's Holm, and is protected by the islands of Hoy, Flotta and South Ronaldsay, as well as by a number of smaller islands and skerries.

About 60 square miles in area, much of the harbour is deep enough to take the largest ship and the ring of islands offers protection from the tide-races and stormy seas of the Pentland Firth. All around rise low green hills, making this a perfect anchorage for ships, both naval and merchant.  It is one of the largest natural harbours in the world.

By 1670 Stromness, already a whaling and fishing centre, became the main European base for the Hudson's Bay Company. By 1854 it had been approved by parliament as the port to which “south mail” arriving at Scrabster in mainland Scotland should be delivered for the Orkney and Shetland islands.

By 1670 Stromness, already a whaling and fishing centre, became the main European base for the Hudson's Bay Company. By 1854 it had been approved by parliament as the port to which “south mail” arriving at Scrabster in mainland Scotland should be delivered for the Orkney and Shetland islands.

Stromness tall ship

During the years 1808 - 1813, commercial shipping going around the north of Scotland to Scandinavia and Russia which had recently come under threat from US privateers supporting the French. assembled in Longhope Bay (Hoy) to await the arrival of an Admiralty-provided protection vessel for the fortnightly convoy to those ports.  There were sometimes as many as 100 – 200 sailing vessels congregated there.  (This privateer activity also resulted in the first shore defences overlooking Scapa Flow, with the construction of the Hackness Battery and two Martello Towers protecting Longhope Sound, at the southern end of Hoy.  They were not actually completed untilafter the hostilities had ended!)

Dennis Head N Ronaldsay

Whilst the first Orkney lighthouse at Dennis Head, North Ronaldsay was built in 1789 as a highly visible warning of the exceedingly treacherous seas and spiteful shorelines in that area of North Ronaldsay, it would be another 60 years before lighthouses began to appear in the sheltered waters of Scapa Flow.  These would be what were known as guiding and leading lights: signposts to calm waters and safe havens.

The date on which these Scapa Flow lighthouses came into service was:

Hoy Sound High (Graemsay)

1851

 

Hoy Sound Low (Graemsay)

1851

 

Barrel of Butter

1853

Light added in 1980

Cantick Head (South Walls, Hoy)

1858

 

Ruff Reef aka Ruff of Cantick

1881

Light added in1909

Cava

1898

Light: 1903. Replaced 1988

Hoxa Head (South Ronaldsay)

1901

Replaced 1996

 

Lighthouses

Hoy Sound High and Hoy Sound Low (1851)

 Hoy High Low pan

It is no accident that there are two lighthouses on the island of Graemsay.  They are what are known technically as leading range lights whose purpose is to form a leading line to be followed (in order, in this case, to gain entrance to the “important harbour of refuge at Stromness” from Hoy Sound rather than Scapa Flow).

Range/Leading lights are normally used in pairs, to form a leading line or range, to guide vessels in confined waters. The rear light is located at a suitable distance behind the front light and also above it  and in line with the intended channel centreline. When viewed from right ahead, the light beam of the rear lantern appears directly above the front one. Synchronising the lanterns with a distinctive flash character significantly improves the visibility of the arrangement.

Hoy High card


Hoy Sounds Notice 1851
Original notice on how to navigate into Stromness using the lighthouses and their lights as seamarks


can buoy top
Barrel of Butter Light
Barrel of Butter (1853)

The rocks on which the stone tower stands  gained its strange name, not from its shape, or position, as is often the case, but from the annual rent paid on it, by the residents of Orphir (on the Orkney mainland). In return for that barrel of butter, they gained permission from the local laird to hunt the seals which basked upon it.

The tower was originally built in 1853 to support a metal cage similar in style to the drawing on the left (signifying what was known as a port-hand beacon). Since 1980 the beacon has been replaced by an automatic lighthouse to which the 1853 stone tower now lends its height.

On 21 June 1919, the waters between the Barrel of Butter and the Calf of Cava (see below) became filled by many of the scuttled ships of the German Grand Fleet, including the Bayern, Markgraf, Köln, Dresden and König.

The tower was also mistaken - once - for a submarine conning tower and shelled by the British Navy.  Fortunately it has always been an unmanned structure.

Much more information and photography still to be installed on these pages 
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